Seed List

Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or any of the proprietary brands.

Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.

Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at 15 psi and let the flasks cool.

Now the difficult part!

Lets start with the easiest method.

Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach, disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.

Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.

The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside the now sterilised area.

Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.

Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.

Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.

With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.

Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.

The more difficult method!

Same transfer point procedure.

The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle, the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.

Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed, suck up the seed and add to the flask.

Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%. To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.

By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed loss.

Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.

Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may be over sterilised.

However, once the time is determined between contamination and no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.

So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to establish the optimum sterilising time.

With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following

For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%) Hydrogen

Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its simple and

easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any further

washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization procedures.

It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty contaminates

then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A friend has

suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it decomposes into

H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the sterilizing - don't

know.

What I would like to know is how long the process takes to convert from

H2O2 to water and oxygen?

There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have found

that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower germination success

rate than seed sown in the morning.

I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at night are

under the the lights for only a short period and are in contact with

the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until the lights

turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are under the

lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night. Presumably

the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume H202 by

mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15 minutes. No

good, killed them all stone dead.)

My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and 2.5ml of

H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is agitated on

and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the liquid and

seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small quantity of

free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml. The flask

is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about 18-20" from the

tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at temperatures

ranging from 17-27 deg.C.

I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid but I

don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence contributes to

the sterilization in any way.

*******************

Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2 diluted to say 3 volumes.

Apply the same experiment procedure.

Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.

Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.

Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.

In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and kept damp.

Will it germinate??

In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size, otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a new flask).

Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or any of the proprietary brands.

Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.

Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at 15 psi and let the flasks cool.

Now the difficult part!

Lets start with the easiest method.

Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach, disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.

Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.

The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside the now sterilised area.

Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.

Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.

Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.

With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.

Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.

The more difficult method!

Same transfer point procedure.

The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle, the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.

Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed, suck up the seed and add to the flask.

Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%. To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.

By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed loss.

Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.

Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may be over sterilised.

However, once the time is determined between contamination and no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.

So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to establish the optimum sterilising time.

With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following

For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%) Hydrogen

Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its simple and

easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any further

washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization procedures.

It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty contaminates

then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A friend has

suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it decomposes into

H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the sterilizing - don't

know.

What I would like to know is how long the process takes to convert from

H2O2 to water and oxygen?

There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have found

that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower germination success

rate than seed sown in the morning.

I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at night are

under the the lights for only a short period and are in contact with

the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until the lights

turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are under the

lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night. Presumably

the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume H202 by

mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15 minutes. No

good, killed them all stone dead.)

My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and 2.5ml of

H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is agitated on

and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the liquid and

seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small quantity of

free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml. The flask

is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about 18-20" from the

tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at temperatures

ranging from 17-27 deg.C.

I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid but I

don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence contributes to

the sterilization in any way.

*******************

Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2 diluted to say 3 volumes.

Apply the same experiment procedure.

Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.

Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.

Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.

In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and kept damp.

Will it germinate??

In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size, otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a new flask).

Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or any of the proprietary brands.

Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.

Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at 15 psi and let the flasks cool.

Now the difficult part!

Lets start with the easiest method.

Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach, disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.

Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.

The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside the now sterilised area.

Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.

Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.

Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.

With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.

Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.

The more difficult method!

Same transfer point procedure.

The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle, the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.

Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed, suck up the seed and add to the flask.

Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%. To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.

By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed loss.

Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.

Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may be over sterilised.

However, once the time is determined between contamination and no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.

So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to establish the optimum sterilising time.

With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following

For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%) Hydrogen

Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its simple and

easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any further

washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization procedures.

It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty contaminates

then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A friend has

suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it decomposes into

H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the sterilizing - don't

know.

What I would like to know is how long the process takes to convert from

H2O2 to water and oxygen?

There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have found

that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower germination success

rate than seed sown in the morning.

I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at night are

under the the lights for only a short period and are in contact with

the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until the lights

turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are under the

lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night. Presumably

the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume H202 by

mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15 minutes. No

good, killed them all stone dead.)

My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and 2.5ml of

H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is agitated on

and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the liquid and

seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small quantity of

free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml. The flask

is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about 18-20" from the

tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at temperatures

ranging from 17-27 deg.C.

I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid but I

don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence contributes to

the sterilization in any way.

*******************

Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2 diluted to say 3 volumes.

Apply the same experiment procedure.

Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.

Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.

Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.

In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and kept damp.

Will it germinate??

In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size, otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a new flask).

Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or any of the proprietary brands.

Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.

Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at 15 psi and let the flasks cool.

Now the difficult part!

Lets start with the easiest method.

Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach, disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.

Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.

The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside the now sterilised area.

Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.

Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.

Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.

With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.

Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.

The more difficult method!

Same transfer point procedure.

The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle, the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.

Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed, suck up the seed and add to the flask.

Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%. To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.

By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed loss.

Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.

Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may be over sterilised.

However, once the time is determined between contamination and no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.

So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to establish the optimum sterilising time.

With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following

For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%) Hydrogen

Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its simple and

easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any further

washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization procedures.

It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty contaminates

then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A friend has

suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it decomposes into

What I would like to know is how long the process takes to convert from

H2O2 to water and oxygen?

I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at night are

under the the lights for only a short period and are in contact with

the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until the lights

turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are under the

lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night. Presumably

the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume H202 by

mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15 minutes. No

good, killed them all stone dead.)

My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and 2.5ml of

H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is agitated on

and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the liquid and

seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small quantity of

free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml. The flask

is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about 18-20" from the

tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at temperatures

ranging from 17-27 deg.C.

I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid but I

don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence contributes to

the sterilization in any way.

*******************

Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2 diluted to say 3 volumes.

Apply the same experiment procedure.

Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.

Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.

Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.

In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and kept damp.

Will it germinate??

In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size, otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a new flask).

Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or any of the proprietary brands.

Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.

Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at 15 psi and let the flasks cool.

Now the difficult part!

Lets start with the easiest method.

Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach, disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.

Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.

The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside the now sterilised area.

Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.

Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.

Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.

With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.

Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.

The more difficult method!

Same transfer point procedure.

The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle, the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.

Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed, suck up the seed and add to the flask.

Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%. To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.

By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed loss.

Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.

Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may be over sterilised.

However, once the time is determined between contamination and no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.

So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to establish the optimum sterilising time.

With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following

For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%) Hydrogen

Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its simple and

easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any further

washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization procedures.

It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty contaminates

then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A friend has

suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it decomposes into

H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the sterilizing - don't

know.

What I would like to know is how long the process takes to convert from

H2O2 to water and oxygen?

There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have found

that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower germination success

rate than seed sown in the morning.

I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at night are

under the the lights for only a short period and are in contact with

the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until the lights

turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are under the

lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night. Presumably

the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume H202 by

mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15 minutes. No

good, killed them all stone dead.)

My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and 2.5ml of

H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is agitated on

and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the liquid and

seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small quantity of

free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml. The flask

is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about 18-20" from the

tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at temperatures

ranging from 17-27 deg.C.

I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid but I

don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence contributes to

the sterilization in any way.

*******************

Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2 diluted to say 3 volumes.

Apply the same experiment procedure.

Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.

Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.

Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.

In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and kept damp.

Will it germinate??

In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size, otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a new flask).