Seed ListUpdated 16/12/2022
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PACKETS OF SEED Enough seed for 4 + flasks. Also exchange available, email
your list
Sowing Orchid Seed method at end of list.
Species Country Harvested
Dend bigibbum
superbum Purple Australia 23.12.22
Sarcochilus
falcatus Australia 11.12.22
Dendrobium
schroederianum. Indonesia 8.12.22.
Dendrobium
bigibbum Superbum alba x alba 8.12.22
Dend bigibbum v
bigibbum Alba x sib Australia 1.12.22
Phalaenopsis
rosenstromii Australia 31.10.22
Laelia perrinii
Coerulea x self Brazil 27.10.22
Dendrobium bigibbum var bigibbum Australia 26.10.22
Dendrobium tortile SE Asia 16.10.22
Cattleya porphryoglossa Brazil 16.10.22
Dendrobium speciosum pedunculatum Australia
16.10.22
Ansellia africana Dark Africa 16.10.22
Cattleya leopoldii (“Perfume
x Grand Poba”) 28.9.22
Dendrobium regium
India 20.9.22
Dendrobium anosum
SE Asia 20.9.22
Dendrobium
friedricksianum Thailand 20.9.22
Paphiopedilum esquerolei Thailand
Paph barbatum Thailand
Dendrobium amabile 6.4.22
DendrbiumTaminbar Island discolor Alba New Guinea
Dendrobium Gouldii Yellow/black horns NG 7.12.21
Cattleya jenmannii "Clmio x Mosca" 2.12.21
Encyclia belizense var belizense CA 7.11.20
Dendrobium bigibbum var bigibbum Australia 13.11.21
Trichoglottis brachiata Philippines 12.11.21
Dendrobium speciosum Grandiflorum Yellow Australia 1.11.21
Dendrobium speciosun curvicaule Australia 18.10.21
Spathoglottis bulbosa magenta Sepik Plains NG 18.10.21
Dendrobium lasianthera New Guinea 12.10.21
Laelia tereticaulis Brazil 10.9.21
Chysis bractescens Mexico 3.9.21
Spathoglottis sulawasiense 8.8.21
Geodorum pictum. Terrestrial Australia 13.7.21
Dendrobium Friedricksianum Occulatum. Thailand 9.7.21
Dend stratiotes Dwarf. exact stratiotes, but 2/3 smaller. Maybe x antennatum
D’Anbertisii??24.2.21
Encyclia belizense Honduras 4.11.19
Cattleya Jenmanii south america 2.01.21
Spathoglottis plicata " multiflora" 27.12.20
Dendrobium Discolor Australia 27.12.20
Dendrobium talasea “cream’ New Guinea 15.12.20
Dendrobium adae Australia 12.12.20
Dendrobium bigibbum Superbum "bicolor x Bicolor" 20.11.20
Oeoniella polystachys Madagascar 20.11.20
Bulbophyllum grandiflorum New Guinea 20.11.20
Dendrobium teretifolium Australia 20.11.20
Dendrobium speciosum pedunculatum Australia 20.10.20
Dend bigibbum superbum Alba x alba Australia 23.10.20
Dend bigibbum superbum Purple Australia 23.10.20
Laelia acuminata CA 9.10.20
Cymbidium Tracyanum 03.2020
Phaius Bernaysii Australia 30.12.19
Vanda Hindsii Australia 27.12.19
Dendrobium affine Australia 27.12.19
Dendrobium canaliculatum “Potsford” Australia 28.11.19
Dendrobium bigibbum superbum Australia1.11.19
Ascocentrum curvifolium Thailand 20.10.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea type white blotched red 15.7.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea Var Illustre 15.7.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea White X Peach 15.7.19
Stanhopea tigrina Mexico 5.5.19
Stanhopea embrei CA 5.5.19
Catasetum integerinum Mexico
Phaius tankarvilleae Alba Australia 20.2.19
WE SUGGEST YOU USE PAYPAL OR WESTERN UNION,
UP TO DATE FLASK & PLANTS LISTS EMAILED ON REQUEST
Regards from Ian & Pat Walters
Burleigh Park Orchid Nursery
http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html
Aseptic in flask sowing.
Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will
need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or
any of the proprietary brands.
Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test
strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.
Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at
15 psi and let the flasks cool.
Now the difficult part!
Lets start with the easiest method.
Green Pod .
Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put
it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach,
disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.
Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer
point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean
air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.
The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution
of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket
type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside
the now sterilised area.
Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an
eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means
of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.
Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.
Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly
transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to
cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.
With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the
flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.
Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.
The more difficult method!
DRY SEED. Chlorine
Same transfer point procedure.
The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a
small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle,
the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added
to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.
Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed,
suck up the seed and add to the flask.
Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%.
To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.
By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of
timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed
loss.
Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.
Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is
what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may
be over sterilised.
However, once the time is determined between contamination and
no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.
So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no
contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to
establish the optimum sterilising time.
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following
For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%)
Hydrogen
Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its
simple and
easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any
further
washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization
procedures.
It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty
contaminates
then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A
friend has
suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it
decomposes into
H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the
sterilizing - don't
know.
What I would like to know is how long the process takes to
convert from
H2O2 to water and oxygen?
There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have
found
that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower
germination success
rate than seed sown in the morning.
I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at
night are
under the the lights for only a short period and are in
contact with
the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until
the lights
turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are
under the
lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night.
Presumably
the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume
H202 by
mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15
minutes. No
good, killed them all stone dead.)
My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and
2.5ml of
H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is
agitated on
and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the
liquid and
seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small
quantity of
free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml.
The flask
is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about
18-20" from the
tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at
temperatures
ranging from 17-27 deg.C.
I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid
but I
don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence
contributes to
the sterilization in any way.
*******************
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2
diluted to say 3 volumes.
Apply the same experiment procedure.
NATURAL Seed germination.
Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed
finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the
seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.
Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled
around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A
method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but
not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.
Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant
and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.
In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough
surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and
kept damp.
Will it germinate??
In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of
seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this
way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size,
otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a
new flask).
More photos at "http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html"
VISIT OUR WEB PAGE
http://www.speciesorchids.com
http://www.speciesorchids.com/flask.html (Flasks)
http://www.speciesorchids.com/Spathoglottis.html (Spathoglottis)
Regards from Ian & Pat Walters
Burleigh Park Orchid Nursery
http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html
Aseptic in flask sowing.
Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will
need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or
any of the proprietary brands.
Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test
strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.
Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at
15 psi and let the flasks cool.
Now the difficult part!
Lets start with the easiest method.
Green Pod .
Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put
it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach,
disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.
Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer
point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean
air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.
The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution
of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket
type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside
the now sterilised area.
Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an
eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means
of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.
Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.
Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly
transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to
cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.
With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the
flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.
Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.
The more difficult method!
DRY SEED. Chlorine
Same transfer point procedure.
The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a
small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle,
the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added
to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.
Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed,
suck up the seed and add to the flask.
Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%.
To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.
By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of
timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed
loss.
Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.
Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is
what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may
be over sterilised.
However, once the time is determined between contamination and
no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.
So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no
contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to
establish the optimum sterilising time.
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following
For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%)
Hydrogen
Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its
simple and
easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any
further
washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization
procedures.
It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty
contaminates
then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A
friend has
suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it
decomposes into
H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the
sterilizing - don't
know.
What I would like to know is how long the process takes to
convert from
H2O2 to water and oxygen?
There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have
found
that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower
germination success
rate than seed sown in the morning.
I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at
night are
under the the lights for only a short period and are in
contact with
the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until
the lights
turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are
under the
lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night.
Presumably
the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume
H202 by
mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15
minutes. No
good, killed them all stone dead.)
My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and
2.5ml of
H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is
agitated on
and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the
liquid and
seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small
quantity of
free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml.
The flask
is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about
18-20" from the
tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at
temperatures
ranging from 17-27 deg.C.
I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid
but I
don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence
contributes to
the sterilization in any way.
*******************
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2
diluted to say 3 volumes.
Apply the same experiment procedure.
NATURAL Seed germination.
Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed
finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the
seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.
Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled
around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A
method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but
not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.
Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant
and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.
In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough
surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and
kept damp.
Will it germinate??
In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of
seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this
way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size,
otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a
new flask).
More photos at "http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html"
VISIT OUR WEB PAGE
http://www.speciesorchids.com
http://www.speciesorchids.com/flask.html (Flasks)
http://www.speciesorchids.com/Spathoglottis.html (Spathoglottis)
Chysis bractescens Mexico 3.9.21
Bonatea speciosa Africa 1.9.21
Spathoglottis sulawasiense 28.7.21
Geodorum pictum. Terrestrial Australia 13.7.21
Dendrobium Friedricksianum occulatum. Yellow,black eyes.Thailand 9.7.21
Dend stratiotes Dwarf. exact stratiotes, but 2/3 smaller. Maybe x antennatum
D’Anbertisii??24.2.21
Phalaenopsis schilleriana Philippines 7.1.21
Cattleya Jenmanii South America 2.01.21
Laelia purpurata "striata" Brazil
Spathoglottis plicata " multiflora" 27.12.20
Dendrobium Discolor Australia 2.01.2021
Dendrobium Adae Australia 21.12.20
Dendrobium talasea “cream’ New Guinea 15.12.20
Dendrobium adae Australia 12.12.20
Dendrobium bigibbum Superbum "bicolor x Bicolor" 20.11.20
Oeoniella polystachys Madagascar 20.11.20
Bulbophyllum grandiflorum New Guinea 20.11.20
Dendrobium teretifolium Australia
Encyclia belizense var belizense 7.11.20
Dendrobium bigibbum var bigibbum Australia 7.11.20
Dendrobium speciosum pedunculatum Australia 20.10.20
Dend bigibbum superbum Alba x alba Australia 23.10.20
Dend bigibbum superbum Purple Australia 23.10.20
Laelia acuminata CA 9.10.20
Haemaria ( Ludisea) discolor var Dawsoniana
Phaius Tankarvilleae Australia 12.5.20
CymbidiumTracyanum 03.2020
Phaius Bernaysii Australia 30.12.19
Dendrobium affine Australia 27.12.19
Dendrobium sylvanum New Guinea 25.11.19
Dendrobium speciosum curvicaule Australia 1.11.19
Dendrobium bigibbum superbum Australia1.11.19
Laelia conagoi Brazil 25.6.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea type white blotched red 15.7.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea Var Illustre 15.7.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea White X Peach 15.7.19
Habenaria Holtzei (Rumphii) Australia 12.5.19
Stanhopea tigrina Mexico 5.5.19
Stanhopea embrei CA 5.5.19
Paphiopedilum Spicerianum India 7.5.19
Catasetum integerinum Mexico
Phaius tankarvilleae Alba Australia 20.2.19
Spathoglottis plicata “bulbosa Pink” Sepik Plains NG 9.11.18
Spathoglottis plicata “bulbosa magenta” Sepik Plains NG 1.11.18
Aerides lawrenceae Sanderiana x sib Philippines 16.10.18
Aerides lawrencea type Philippines 12.10.18
Aerides lawrencea Sanderiana Purpurea x sib Philippines 12.10.18
Laelia purpurata Werkhauseri x sib Brazil 19.4.18
Catasetum discolor Brazil germinated 9.3.18
Eulophia speciosa Feb 2018 Africa
Bletia patula alba 4.27.16 seed from USA note collection date
Schomburgkia exaltata 10.2.18 Cent Amer
Dendrobium nindii 1/02/2018 Australia
Phalaenopsis amabilis grandiflora Philippines 16.1.18
WE SUGGEST YOU USE PAYPAL OR WESTERN UNION,
UP TO DATE FLASK & PLANTS LISTS EMAILED ON REQUEST
Regards from Ian & Pat Walters
Burleigh Park Orchid Nursery
http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html
Aseptic in flask sowing.
Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will
need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or
any of the proprietary brands.
Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test
strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.
Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at
15 psi and let the flasks cool.
Now the difficult part!
Lets start with the easiest method.
Green Pod .
Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put
it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach,
disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.
Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer
point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean
air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.
The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution
of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket
type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside
the now sterilised area.
Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an
eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means
of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.
Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.
Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly
transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to
cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.
With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the
flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.
Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.
The more difficult method!
DRY SEED. Chlorine
Same transfer point procedure.
The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a
small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle,
the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added
to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.
Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed,
suck up the seed and add to the flask.
Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%.
To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.
By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of
timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed
loss.
Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.
Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is
what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may
be over sterilised.
However, once the time is determined between contamination and
no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.
So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no
contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to
establish the optimum sterilising time.
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following
For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%)
Hydrogen
Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its
simple and
easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any
further
washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization
procedures.
It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty
contaminates
then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A
friend has
suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it
decomposes into
H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the
sterilizing - don't
know.
What I would like to know is how long the process takes to
convert from
H2O2 to water and oxygen?
There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have
found
that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower
germination success
rate than seed sown in the morning.
I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at
night are
under the the lights for only a short period and are in
contact with
the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until
the lights
turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are
under the
lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night.
Presumably
the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume
H202 by
mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15
minutes. No
good, killed them all stone dead.)
My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and
2.5ml of
H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is
agitated on
and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the
liquid and
seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small
quantity of
free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml.
The flask
is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about
18-20" from the
tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at
temperatures
ranging from 17-27 deg.C.
I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid
but I
don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence
contributes to
the sterilization in any way.
*******************
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2
diluted to say 3 volumes.
Apply the same experiment procedure.
NATURAL Seed germination.
Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed
finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the
seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.
Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled
around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A
method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but
not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.
Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant
and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.
In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough
surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and
kept damp.
Will it germinate??
In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of
seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this
way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size,
otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a
new flask).
More photos at "http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html"
VISIT OUR WEB PAGE
http://www.speciesorchids.com
http://www.speciesorchids.com/flask.html (Flasks)
http://www.speciesorchids.com/Spathoglottis.html (Spathoglottis)
PACKETS OF SEED Enough seed for 4 + flasks. AUD$8 per packet
Airmail post per order International $3 Australia $1
Sowing Orchid Seed method at end of list.
Species Country Harvested
CymbidiumTracyanum 03.2020
Phalaenopsis philippinense Philippines 7.2.02
Phaius Bernaysii Australia 30.12.19
Vanda Hindsii Australia 27.12.19
Dendrobiumaffine Australia 27.12.19
Dendrobiumcanaliculatum “Potsford” Australia 28.11.19
Dendrobiumcanaliculatum “ Morton Station” Australia 28.11.19
Dendrobiumcanaliculatum Nigrescens “Lakeland” Australia 28.11.19
Dendrobiumcanaliculatum Nigrescens “ Mosman” Australia 28.11.19
Dendrobium sylvanum New Guinea 25.11.19
Encyclia belizense Honduras 4.11.19
Dendrobium bigibbum superbum Australia1.11.19
Dendrobium speciosum curvicaule Australia 1.11.19
Bulb phalaenopsis Borneo 1.10.19
Dendrobium sutiknoi New Guinea 1.10.19
Spathoglottis sulawasiense 28.7.19
Laelia conagoi Brazil 25.6.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea type white blotched red 15.7.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea Var Illustre 15.7.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea White X Peach 15.7.19
Geodorum pictum Australia 25.6.19
Habenaria Holtzei (Rumphii) Australia 12.5.19
Stanhopea tigrina Mexico 5.5.19
Stanhopea embrei CA 5.5.19
Paphiopedilum esquerolei China 7.5.19
Paphiopedilum Spicerianum India 7.5.19
Catasetum integerinum Mexico
Phaius tankarvilleae Alba Australia 20.2.19
Dendrobium discolor Australia 9.12.18
Dendrobium helix “latte” New Guinea 9.12.19
Spathoglottis plicata “bulbosa Pink” Sepik Plains NG 9.11.18
Spathoglottis plicata “bulbosa magenta” Sepik Plains NG 1.11.18
Aerides lawrenceae Sanderiana x sib Philippines 16.10.18
Aerides lawrencea type Philippines 12.10.18
Aerides lawrencea Sanderiana Purpurea x sib Philippines 12.10.18
Dendrobium bigibbum superbum purple Australia 3.10.18
Spath ((Kimballiana x bicolor) x Sunshine)) X plicata Bulbosa magenta 15.9.18
Dendrobium farmerii Pink India 6.9.18
Laelia purpurata Werkhauseri x sib Brazil 19.4.18
Dendrobium rhodoptergium semi alba x sib India 20.4.18
Phaius Tankarvilleae Australia 26.3.18
Phaius Tankarvilleae “ Artangela” Australia 26.3.18
Catasetum discolor Brazil germinated 9.3.18
Eulophia speciosa Feb 2018 Africa
Bletia patula alba 4.27.16 seed from USA note collection date
Schomburgkia exaltata 10.2.18 Cent Amer
Pa phiop edilum primulinum 10.2.18 Sumatra
Pa phiop edilum Lowii 10.2.18 Sumatra
Dendrobium nindii 1/02/2018 Australia
Phalaenopsis amabilis grandiflora Philippines 16.1.18
WE SUGGEST YOU USE PAYPAL OR WESTERN UNION,
UP TO DATE FLASK & PLANTS LISTS EMAILED ON REQUEST
Regards from Ian & Pat Walters
Burleigh Park Orchid Nursery
http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html
Aseptic in flask sowing.
Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will
need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or
any of the proprietary brands.
Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test
strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.
Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at
15 psi and let the flasks cool.
Now the difficult part!
Lets start with the easiest method.
Green Pod .
Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put
it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach,
disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.
Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer
point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean
air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.
The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution
of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket
type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside
the now sterilised area.
Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an
eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means
of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.
Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.
Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly
transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to
cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.
With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the
flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.
Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.
The more difficult method!
DRY SEED. Chlorine
Same transfer point procedure.
The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a
small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle,
the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added
to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.
Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed,
suck up the seed and add to the flask.
Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%.
To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.
By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of
timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed
loss.
Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.
Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is
what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may
be over sterilised.
However, once the time is determined between contamination and
no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.
So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no
contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to
establish the optimum sterilising time.
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following
For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%)
Hydrogen
Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its
simple and
easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any
further
washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization
procedures.
It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty
contaminates
then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A
friend has
suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it
decomposes into
H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the
sterilizing - don't
know.
What I would like to know is how long the process takes to
convert from
H2O2 to water and oxygen?
There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have
found
that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower
germination successrate than seed sown in the morning.
I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at
night are
under the the lights for only a short period and are in
contact with
the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until
the lights
turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are
under the
lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night.
Presumably
the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume
H202 by
mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15
minutes. No
good, killed them all stone dead.)
My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and
2.5ml of
H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is
agitated on
and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the
liquid and
seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small
quantity of
free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml.
The flask
is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about
18-20" from the
tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at
temperatures
ranging from 17-27 deg.C.
I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid
but I
don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence
contributes to
the sterilization in any way.
*******************
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2
diluted to say 3 volumes.
Apply the same experiment procedure.
NATURAL Seed germination.
Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed
finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the
seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.
Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled
around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A
method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but
not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.
Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant
and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.
In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough
surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and
kept damp.
Will it germinate??
In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of
seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this
way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size,
otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a
new flask).
More photos at "http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html"
VISIT OUR WEB PAGE
http://www.speciesorchids.com
http://www.speciesorchids.com/flask.html (Flasks)
http://www.speciesorchids.com/Spathoglottis.html (Spathoglottis)
Phaius Bernaysii Australia 31.12.19
Vanda Hindsii Austrakia 27.12.19
Dendrobium affine Australia 27.12.19
Dendrobiumcanaliculatum “Potsford” Australia 28.11.19
Dendrobiumcanaliculatum “ Morton Station” Australia 28.11.19
Dendrobiumcanaliculatum Nigrescens “Lakeland”Austalia 28.11.19
Dendrobiumcanaliculatum Nigrescens “ Mosman” Australia 28.11.19
Dendrobium sylvanum New Guinea 25.11.19
Encyclia belizense Honduras 4.11.19
Dendrobium speciosum curvicaule Australia 1.11.19
Dendrobium sutiknoi 1.10.19
Dendrobium bigibbum superbum Australia 1.11.19
Spathoglottis sulawasiense 28.7.19
Laelia conagoi Brazil 25.6.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea type white blotched red 15.7.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea Var Illustre 15.7.19
Rhyncostylis gigantea White X Peach 15.7.19
Geodorum pictum Australia 25.6.19
Habenaria Holtzei Australia 12.5.19
Paphiopedilum esquerolei China 7.5.19
Paphiopedilum Spicerianum India 7.5.19
Catasetum integerinum Mexico
Dendrobium discolor Australia 9.12.18
Spathoglottis plicata “bulbosa Pink” Sepik Plains NG
9.11.18
Encyclia belizense Honduras 7.11.18
Spathoglottis plicata “bulbosa magenta” Sepik Plains NG
1.11.18
Aerides lawrenceae Sanderiana x sib Philippines 16.10.18
Aerides lawrencea type Philippines 12.10.18
Aerides lawrencea Sanderiana Purpurea x sib Philippines
12.10.18
Dendrobium bigibbum superbum purple Australia 11.10.18
Spath ((Kimballiana x
bicolor) x Sunshine)) X plicata Bulbosa magenta 15.9.18
Dendrobium farmerii
Pink India 6.9.18
Laelia purpurata
Werkhauseri x sib Brazil 19.4.18
Dendrobium
rhodoptergium semi alba x sib India 20.4.18
Phaius Tankarvilleae
Australia 26.3.18
Phaius Tankarvilleae
“ Artangela” Australia 26.3.18
Catasetum discolor
Brazil germinated 9.3.18
Eulophia speciosa Feb
2018 Africa
Bletia patula alba
4.27.16 seed from USA note collection date. germinated.
Schomburgkia exaltata
10.2.18 Cent Amer
Paphiop edilum
primulinum 10.2.18 Sumatra
Paphiop edilum Lowii
10.2.18 Sumatra
Dendrobium nindii
1/02/2018 Australia
Phalaenopsis amabilis
grandiflora Philippines 16.1.18
Dendrobium
trilamellatum semifuscum Australia 29.12.17
Dendrobium
Broomfieldii Australia 28.11.17
Dendrobium Helix Dark
Brown new Guinea 22.11.17
Dendrobium affine (
dicuphum) red centre Australia 28.10.17
Dendrobium affine (
dicuphum) Alba. green centre Australia 28.10.17
Dend secundum
28.10.17
Spathoglottis
kimballiana 28.10.17 Philippines
Dendrobium Helix
Yellow New Guinea 20.10.17
WE SUGGEST YOU USE
PAYPAL OR WESTERN UNION,
UP TO DATE FLASK
& PLANTS LISTS EMAILED ON REQUEST
Regards from Ian & Pat Walters
Burleigh Park Orchid Nursery
http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html
Aseptic in flask sowing.
Ok, so you want to grow some orchids from seed. First you will
need sterile flasks with nutrient growing media in them. Knudsons C works OK, or
any of the proprietary brands.
Set the pH at about pH 5.0. You may need a pH meter or test
strips. Most proprietory brands come already pH adjusted.
Bottle say 80 mls per bottle, pressure cook for 15 minutes at
15 psi and let the flasks cool.
Now the difficult part!
Lets start with the easiest method.
Green Pod .
Collect your green seedpod, not too much off ripening, and put
it into a small sealable bottle with some straight chlorine bleach,
disinfectant, pool chlorine at 3% or more, or similar chlorine based product.
Leave it there for 20 minutes while you set up the transfer
point, a box with a sheet of plastic or glass, a large plastic bag, or a clean
air cabinet ( lamina flow) if money is no object.
The transfer point has to be wiped out with a diluted solution
of the bleach, preferably also sprayed with a fine mist atomiser ( supermarket
type is great).Wash the mother flasks in the same bleach and place them inside
the now sterilised area.
Sterilise ( pressure cook) a small bottle of water with an
eyedropper in it, and a scalpel or forceps wrapped in alfoil to provide a means
of opening the seed pod and transferring the seed.
Place all in the sterilised area, with the pod.
Using the scalpel or forceps, open the seedpod and quickly
transfer a very small amount of seed to the flask. I do two or three flasks to
cover any loss, one flask is usually more than enough.
With the eye dropper, put a little sterilised water in the
flask and swirl around to spread out the seed.
Remove the flask, label, and wait to see results.
The more difficult method!
DRY SEED. Chlorine
Same transfer point procedure.
The seed has to be soaked in a sterilising solution, use a
small phial with a lid. After a determined time, the seed is allowed to settle,
the sterilising solution poured off (decanted) and some sterilised water added
to the seed and again decanted. This wash can be repeated.
Using the sterile eyedropper, add sterile water to the seed,
suck up the seed and add to the flask.
Sterilising solution is a weak chlorine bleach, say 3 to 5%.
To determine the time required for sterilising, some experimenting is required.
By setting up a number of phials with seed, a series of
timings will determine under sterilisation thru to over sterilising and seed
loss.
Start at 3 minutes, then 6, then 9, then 12, then 15.
Germination without contamination at the minimum timing is
what is required. If the seed is sterilised but fails to germinate, then it may
be over sterilised.
However, once the time is determined between contamination and
no contamination, a finer time range can be tried.
So if there is contamination after 3 minutes, but no
contaminating after 9 minutes, a range of 4 to 9 minutes can be trialled to
establish the optimum sterilising time.
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
With thanks to Darryl Smedley for the following
For some years now I have been using 3 Volume W/V (10%)
Hydrogen
Peroxide (H2O2) to sterilize orchid seed before sowing. Its
simple and
easy as its a one-step operation that doesn't require any
further
washing of the seed as in chlorine-based sterilization
procedures.
It works because the Hydrogen Peroxide kills the nasty
contaminates
then breaks down into water and oxygen after a period. A
friend has
suggested that maybe the H2O2 might only work when it
decomposes into
H2O and O2 and its the nascent oxygen that does the
sterilizing - don't
know.
What I would like to know is how long the process takes to
convert from
H2O2 to water and oxygen?
There is a practical reason for wanting to know this as I have
found
that seed sown in the evening generally has a lower
germination success
rate than seed sown in the morning.
I have speculated that this is because the flasks done at
night are
under the the lights for only a short period and are in
contact with
the H2O2 whilst it is still 'active' for several hours until
the lights
turn on again in the morning. Flasks done in the morning are
under the
lights for up to 8 hours before the lights turn off at night.
Presumably
the H2O2 breaks down during this period. (I once used 6 Volume
H202 by
mistake and washed and re-sterilized the seeds within 15
minutes. No
good, killed them all stone dead.)
My procedures are that the seed is placed in a test tube and
2.5ml of
H2O2 is drawn up and syringed into the tube. The tube is
agitated on
and off for 5 minutes then the stopper is removed and the
liquid and
seed poured into the flask. The flask usually has a small
quantity of
free water on top of the agar mixture - no more than 0.5 ml.
The flask
is then placed under 36/37 Watt Growlights at about
18-20" from the
tube to the top of the agar. The flasking room is kept at
temperatures
ranging from 17-27 deg.C.
I'm told that the stabilizer used in H202 is Phosphoric Acid
but I
don't know in what proportion nor whether its presence
contributes to
the sterilization in any way.
*******************
DRY SEED. Hydrogen Peroxide.
Same procedure as for sterilising with chlorine, but use H2O2
diluted to say 3 volumes.
Apply the same experiment procedure.
NATURAL Seed germination.
Orchid seed germinates in the wild when the airborne seed
finds a suitable crevice which also hosts a mycorhiza fungus which infects the
seed. The fungus supplies sugar for the seed to germinate.
Bearing this in mind, seed will often germinate when sprinkled
around the roots of an established orchid, because the fungus is present. A
method to mimic this is to prepare a pot with a media that will stay damp, but
not soggy wet, and stretch a piece of terry towel over the substrate.
Collect some pieces of orchid root from an established plant
and mash it up somewhat in some water and spread it over the terry towel.
In theory, this should introduce the fungus to the rough
surface, so that the orchid seed can then be sprinkled over the terry towel and
kept damp.
Will it germinate??
In all cases, it is recommended that a very small amount of
seed is sown, so that each seedling can develop without over crowding. In this
way, a mother flask may be sufficient to grow a few seedligs to a pottable size,
otherwise too many seedlings require replating ( transfer and thinning out in a
new flask).
More photos at "http://www.speciesorchids.com/photos.html"
VISIT OUR WEB PAGE
http://www.speciesorchids.com
http://www.speciesorchids.com/flask.html (Flasks)
http://www.speciesorchids.com/Spathoglottis.html (Spathoglottis)
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